Seventy years of Independence and Nicobar

India, with her kaleidoscopic diversity is a country whose charming variety emanates from its history, shaped by its geography and adorned by myriad cultures. A few days from now, we shall be celebrating our 70^th Independence Day. Years ago, India made a “tryst with her destiny” and the hopes and dreams of a great nation were envisioned and dreamt.

Today, we are a proud nation with the third largest economy (in PPP) and possess the second largest human resources. We have sent mangalyana and are envied by the world for our indigenous technology. We are also poised to fight the demons of unequal development and socio-economic infrastructure bottlenecks.

Here, in the southernmost district of the country, we are proud of being a part of India’s progress. The district has seen the worst of natural disaster and yet its people are so resilient that they have bounced back to normalcy in record time. This quality of people of Nicobar is our greatest asset.

Usually, we associate growth and development only with the economy and completely ignore the social aspect of it. From Nicobar, the materialistic world can learn a lesson or two. Whereas, in the rest of the country, the position of women even after 70 years of independence is still questionable, the Nicobari women are independent, free from the fear of foeticide, gender discrimination, eve-teasing, dowry deaths, domestic violence, acid attacks and even the social ostracism which only a woman faces in case of child out of wedlock. It is indeed a great achievement that the people of Nicobar treat their women so well and help in materializing the true spirit of freedom envisaged by thinkers like Tagore and Rousseau – the freedom from the fear and a dignified life.

Figure 1: A group of nicobari women in their traditional dress.

Photo: Greatheart Nicobari

The tuhet system that takes care of the orphans, the old, the sick, the disabled is yet another strength of the people of Nicobar. It’s indeed a great freedom from insecurities that the people of the district ensure for one and all. Our friendly neighboring country, Bhutan is well known for its high happiness index and the people of Nicobar too can boast of the same as they are so socially advanced, resilient in the face of adversities, so happy, simple and content.

Yet, we are certainly not a Utopian district. We have more than our fair share of problems which have made administration in this district an arduous task. The biggest challenge for the administration is the long gestational period of developmental projects due to the very geography of this district. The district comprises of 22 islands and eight of them are inhabited. These islands are not only far from the nearest economic hub i.e. Port Blair but also separated from each other by a very tempestuous sea, making transportation of people, goods and everything that is important for the development of infrastructure a slow and cumbersome process. The lack of mobile and internet connectivity along with this geographical isolation also inhibits the islands from taking giant leaps towards progress. The smaller islands like Chaura and hamlets in Nancowry and little Nicobar also lack some very basic facilities like water and 24x7 electricity. Though the administration has been taking steps like floating a tender for de-salination plant in Chaura Island, installation of solar street lights, commissioning an exclusive boat for the southern sector etc, the common islander still has a lot to wish for. Therefore, a lot has to be done by the administration, by in fact everyone, from the lowest MGNREGA functionary to the district administration to the highest policy makers for the betterment of this beautiful district. With the 70^th anniversary of India’s independence not far off, we must understand that the only way forward is as enshrined by our national government’s motto .i.e. “together with all, development for all” and to achieve this, we all must join hands and play our small role in this glorious march to a better India. Jai Hind.

Spectacular sunsets of nicobar

Talk about setting of our life-giving star, and the even the most taciturn and reticent speaker shall wax eloquent, ordinary mortals like me may even turn poetic. The tangerine sunsets washes the skies and earth in a golden hue so enchanting that not even a puritan can stay indifferent to it. The mysterious song of cicadas, the slow fading of deep orange, mixing with darker crimsons and finally disappearing into midnight blues, the darkening of coconut greens in to gaunt windblown silhouettes are priceless. The sea beaches apart from mountains are considered best for viewing these sunsets in their full glory and we have been fortunate to behold many of these mesmeric ones here in Nicobar islands and their more popular cousins in the andaman group and we thank the Almighty to bestow upon the opportunity to be a witness to these breath-takingly beautiful sunsets..

sunset at pilpillow beach, kamorta island
photo : Deepak Yadav, IPS

kimious beach, Carnicobar
photo : Deepak Yadav, IPS

sunset at macachua, little nicobar
photo : Jabestin Arulraj, IFoS

another shot of kimious beach
photo : Pandava Shreenu, NRHM

The enchanting Teressa Island

meadow-like grasslands in bengali and alurong villages

Named after the Austrian Arch-duchess Maria Theresia, Teressa or Tarasa (or Luroo in the local language), is one of the most  beautiful of Nicobarese islands. It is the neighbour of the abandoned Bompuka island and is situated south of chowra island (famed for its shamans).

rainlilies (pic taken from internet)

The island surrounded by the silvery white sands is unique with its vast expanse of grasslands dotted with ubiquitous wild kevadi or Pandanus trees. This mesmerising verdure is interspersed with flowers of the most lurid colors ranging from flaming orange colored pagoda flowers (also known as "hanuman kireetam"), luxuriant clusters of shocking pink and purple rain lilies,  red and green wild poinsettias (euphorbia cyathophora) and wild lantanas with yellow and tangerine florets and riot of (what is known as) common floss flower or siam weed.

pagoda flower in its full splendour
(pic taken from wikipedia)

The island is serene and tranquil and is served by one north south road  that connects southern villages  luxi and Chukmachi with northern villages Bengali, Kalasi and Alurong and boasts of a brand new RCC jetty. However due to lack of breakwaters, the jetty is used sparingly as the big boats are seldom able to touch the jetty. This island is being served by pawanhans helicopter service four times a week to Kamorta, Carnicobar and Port Blair and twice in a week to Chowra.

a sign board showing the names and distance
of all the villages from the helipad

teressa jetty built by ALHW

safed balu beach

The beach Safed Balu , true to its name boasts of silver sands, encasing myriad shades of aquamarine waters, covered with beach morning glory vines with hot pink flowers is a lovely place to visit. Another  interesting place of interest could be a lone gazebo-hut on a small hillock, though shunned by the locals and covered with crosses and un-hexed by nails  and from here one can view really spectacular sunsets.

Teressa with its english meadow- like beauty is truly one of the most bewitching islands in the Nicobar group of islands with simple, god-fearing and content people as is case with all the Nicobarese Tribals. 

the view hut protected and un-hexed by use of cross and nails 

the nicobari canoe - the lifeline of these islands

an "Ap" in the carnic waters

                           Nicobarese hodi or "Ap" or  "Ri" as it is called  further south than carnicobar and chowra, used  for  a gamut of activities like fishing, for "Asol Ap" (canoe racing) and for pleasure rides,  is made up of a single hollowed-out tree trunk with a single outrigger for support and is quite narrow, usually decorated with traditional and pre-christian motifs. Its beauty lies in its very lightness and maneuverability which makes it a much more dependable option than typical "dinghys" or even more sophisticated gemini boats in the tempestuous waters of bay of bengal as it can easily be flicked to drain the water that could have got in due to those furiously raging waves, making another boat heavy and susceptible to submergence.
The inhabitants of chowra island (in nicobar district) known for their eldritch and shamanic powers clearly dominated the trade of wood, arecanuts, lime etc which was done for manufacturing these canoes and were feared and admired so, that their canoes ( apart from pottery) were used by most other islanders as the rituals done by the chowrite shamans "kamasuon" seemed to have bestowed a protective power over these canoes. The sea-worthiness of the "ap" can hardly be challenged as even today it epitomises the very best of indigenious watercraft traditions. With length varying from 2m to 25m, these canoes are a sight to behold on the turquoise blue waters of these islands and especially during the canoe race. 

two "ap" decorated with kevadi  leaves stationed outside malacca village community hall
photo : Pandava Sreenu, NRHM

the link to a beautiful video on the "asol ap" day. 
courtesy : Greatheart Nicobari  https://www.facebook.com/greatheart.nicobari/videos/653817184721512/

nicobar dotted with mussaenda trees

a mussaenda tree in its full peach and coral splendour,  Malacca village, carnicobar

Mussaenda Frondosa, another variety found in abundance in kamorta island, Nicobar district

Nicobar : my home, my islands

a view from the top of the light house, at Keating Point, Mus village,  Carnicobar

"Age cannot wither her, nor custom stale
Her infinite variety"
                              - William Shakespeare, "Antony and Cleopatra"


India, with her infinite variety, is a land of myriad charms and beckons us to experience in all its grandeur and sumptuosity.
Nicobar district, the southern-most district is actually a group of 22 islands, situated in the south-east of the Bay of Bengal adds a distinct shade of its own to this multi-hued, myriad-faceted country. The emerald green isles with its luxuriant flora, its acres of coconut gardens, its flaming scarlet ixoras , stunningly crimson hibiscuses, peachy coral hued mussaendas, is surrounded by azure blue and turquoise green waters, enchant us as we approach the isles by Pawan Hans Helicopter services, once in a week chartered Air India Flight or by the various DSS Ships.
A home to Nicobarese and Shompen tribes, these islands are separated from the Andaman group of islands by the tempestuous and “menacing” ten degree channels giving these islands an aura of mystery and elusiveness, which is further heightened by the fact these islands with the exception of revenue area of Campbell bay in Great Nicobar islands is closed to tourists and outsiders.
Many pristine virginal beaches with silver sands sparkling in the sun surround these islands makes one remember how "A thing of beauty is a joy forever"
But these beautiful isles have also a heart breakingly sad tale to tell. Not a day passes, when the dreaded word "Tsunami" is not mentioned not a day passes when an eye doesn’t shed tears in the memory of their loved one taken so brutally away by the on-slaught of nature. The destruction of one’s home doesn’t ever rattle one when one has seen the families withering away.
But time heals everything and every dark cloud has a silver lining. The silver here lies in the renewed jest for life and the herculean efforts made by Nicobarese people and administration in not only re-constructing the shattered hopes but building new ones and we are poised to welcome changes that will bring about a paradigm shift. The slow but sure and steady steps would pave way for a Brave New World, unafraid of the furies of nature and being a part of India’s march to inclusive development and happiness for all.